Three rings, lots of sparkle

Leo (July 23 – August 22)
Ruby: The ruby comes in various shades of red and is associated with fire, love and passion. Historically, the ruby was from India and was one of the most sought-after gemstones for its color and hardness. A ruby is actually composed of the very hard, colorless mineral corundum, with chrome and iron adding the red color. The most valuable stones have a deep pigeon’s-blood red color. Corundum tinged with other colors are called sapphires.  Although a brilliant stone, it lacks the fire of a diamond and is often cut to enhance the color, even at the expense of weight. For more than 500 years the finest rubies have come from a small area near Mogok, Burma, where they are washed and sieved from limestone gravels. Rubies also occur in the gem gravels of Thailand, Cambodia, Sri Lanka and North Carolina.

Rubies were also thought by the ancients to have healing properties. In the culture of India, rubies were thought to control the stomach, and rubies would be used to handle stomach problems and disorders. Rubies were the stones of peace and contentment, something that many Leos strive for. Warriors would put rubies under their skin to bring a quick end to battle. Many people wore rubies as a way to settle disputes amongst warring factions. The ruby was even given as a present after a fight, to soothe away the angry feelings and bring a new happiness to the situation. As a gemstone, the ruby has been popular for centuries, believed to help heal and open the heart, as well as illuminating the emotional level of life and revealing divine love. In the Ancient World, it was believed to contain prophetic powers, thus enabling any wearer to predict the future based upon color changes within the stone. It was formerly thought that, if fashioned into a ring worn on the left hand or into a brooch worn on the left side, this jewel would endow its owner with the magical ability to live in peace among enemies. It has also been credited with warding off misfortune and ill-health, and is often given as a gift to symbolize success, devotion, integrity, health and passion.

Tourmaline: Tourmaline is often associated with the heart, the part of the body ruled by Leo. This stone can help you open yourself to love and it enhances compassion, happiness and serenity. Leo is a naturally creative zodiac sign, and Tourmaline provides added inspiration — or can help jumpstart the process if you’re feeling blocked. Tourmaline strengthens your ability to manifest your goals, and it attracts abundance and prosperity as it makes others more receptive to your talents. Traditionally used as a meditation stone, Tourmaline is also considered helpful for channeling.

Carnelian: Carnelian’s warm red-orange color resonates with Leo’s innate vivacity and can provide an extra boost of energy. This stone supports healthy self-expression, self-assertion, individuality and courage and is considered one of the best allies for promoting your talents and manifesting your desires. Also considered to have protective properties, Carnelian is particularly associated with protection from envy, gossip and anger. On an esoteric level, Carnelian is said to assist in recalling past lives.

Other gems associated with Leo: Sardonyx, Onyx, Golden Topaz

Virgo (August 23 – September 22)
Blue Sapphire:
Sapphire is a beautiful variety of Corundum, shaded blue and other colors by the inclusion of micro amounts of oxidized iron and other metals, which have been treated by the Earth’s background radiation to bring out these colors. Sapphire has a hardness of Nine, one of the hardest of precious gemstones, second only to the Diamond. Sapphire comes in many colors such as blue, purple, green, white, orange and golden as well as a black or blue star.  The Star Sapphire is a variety that has tiny needle like crystals of rutile radiating from the center of this six-sided crystal. Light shining down the “C” axis of the crystal will reflect off of these rutile crystals giving off a six-rayed star.
It is worth noting that a sapphire and a ruby are made of the same material, differing only in color.

Considered a sacred stone in Buddhism, the Blue Sapphire brings order and clarity to the mind, thereby increasing your ability to access spiritual wisdom. Since Virgo is prone to anxiety and worry — populating the mind with distracting or unproductive thoughts — this gemstone is particularly useful. The color blue is traditionally associated with the heavens, and Virgo benefits from this reminder of a higher perspective. Blue Sapphire also increases mental flexibility, helping Virgos release hardened attitudes and open themselves to new possibilities.
The Ancient Greeks linked the sapphire…particularly the white variety…to Apollo and often wore it as an aid to prophecy when consulting oracles. In past times, this gem was considered a valuable aid toward development of the ‘third eye,’ and thought to guard its owner from being captured by enemies. It was frequently worn and used during rituals as a strengthening agent in the ability to tap and send forth power. Egyptians associated the clear sapphire with the Eye of Horus and this particular variety is credited with being a guardian of love.
The Persians believed that the blue of the sky was the reflection of a great sapphire upon which rested the Earth. Thus, it is often said to represent the tranquility of the heavens and some historians have noted that the Law given to Moses on the Mount was engraved upon tablets of sapphire. It is also the stone used in the Cardinal’s ring to denote his badge of office within the Catholic religion. In addition, this gem was once believed lethal to venomous insects and reptiles, as well as being regarded in terms of gender…dark stones being female and light stones being male.
In Medieval times, priests and monks would wear sapphire jewelry in the belief that the stone possessed the power to quell wicked impulses and impure thoughts, in addition to banishing envy and promoting chastity in virgins. Many monarchs throughout history have worn sapphires around their necks as a powerful defense from harm. Sapphire is associated with the Archangel Michael, the spark of God. This archangel’s duty is to dispel fear and danger, carries a flaming blue sword, and eradicates darkness. It is said in ancient lore that Sapphire represents the infinite depth of wisdom and truth we all possess, as opposed to that which we believe. Knowledge and truth that is filtered by our beliefs rarely encompass All That Is. We all possess deep awareness; the blue sapphire represents our portal to this awareness.

Jasper:  Virgos have a tendency toward hyper-analysis, Jasper helps reconnect with the earthy, feminine nature, including sensuality and healthy sexuality. Jasper can attune the Virgos inner Goddess, enhancing nurturing and protective energies. Jasper comes in many colors, and while each variation holds particular healing powers, all colors are said to balance emotions and vibrations in the body. A stone of gentleness and relaxation, Jasper can assist an ever-busy Virgo to take a break and experience peace and comfort.

Other gems associated with Virgo: Carnelian, Jade, Moss Agate

Emery, Apache peridot miner

Making a run down to Safford to take a badly needed hot springs soak, we passed near the town of Peridot, Arizona. A mesa near here is capped with a basalt flow rich in this lovely lime green mineral. The basalt layer ranges from ten to one hundred feet in thickness.

Via a contact at a local casino, I hooked up with Emery, a handsome oak tree of a fellow who wields a thirty pound hammer to separate peridot crystals from the basalt. 9/11 has denied him access to dynamite, so hammer and wedges are what he uses, as well as a backhoe.

Emery sells his material to only one person, but offered to come down to the Renaissance Festival to show me what he has. He showed up with some gorgeous chunks of Basalt with lovely crystals of peridot, some tumbled peridot beaded necklaces and bracelets, and some crystals of peridot. Up until now, I hadn’t seen what it looks like in the rough.

I like to mix peridot with green pearls in my jewelry. I love to put garnets and peridot together on one of my rings. Peridot is usually put in silver but looks very nice in gold.

Arizona peridot is beautiful, plentiful, and beloved worldwide. Emory said the material from Pakistan is more rare and larger in size. Peridot is found on the isle of St John in the Red sea where it is still mined in small quantities. Queen Cleopatra is said to have possessed green stones mislabled emeralds from this isle. The bible misnames this stone as topazos as well.

Emory showed up with his goodies and I bought samples of the rough as well as a lovely three strand necklace of tumbled period, a few bracelets, and a bunch of chunky peridot crystals. Yummy!

Other gemstones from Arizona: Four Peaks Amethyst and “anthill” garnets from the four corner’s region. And more hot springs? There is much to explore in Arizona.

Arizona Renaissance Festival – Feb/March

Southern California Pleasure Faire- April/May

Minnesota Renaissance Festival – Aug/Sep

Colorado Renaissance Festival – June/July

North Carolina Renaissance Festival Oct/Nov

Anatomy of the Lost Wax Casting process

Setting The Sprue

Placing the wax ring on a sprue

In casting, a sprue is the passage through which a molten material is introduced into a mold, and the term also refers to the excess material which solidifies in the sprue passage. In sand casting, the sprue is formed by a dowel which is removed from the sand to make the hole into which the metal is poured.

Sprues can serve as filters, heat sinks, and as feeders. Bronze in particular has a high shrinkage rate as it is cooling; a sprue can continue to provide molten metal to the casting, provided it is large enough to retain its heat and stay liquid, as metal in the main casting cools and shrinks. The design of the sprue and runner system can be also utilized to trap unwanted dross and sand from continuing into the main cavity; this may include adding porous material to the runners, or designing the sprue to eject the dross to the side of the sprue using cyclonic separation.

Making An Investment

Plaster investment is mixed and poured into the flask, covering the wax

The sprued wax pattern is dipped into a slurry of fine refractory material, known as investment material; one example of this is silica. This fine material is used first to give a smooth surface finish and reproduce fine details. During the primary coat(s), the sand will typically be a zircon-based, as zirconium is less likely to react with the molten metal when poured into the shell. The cluster is then dipped into a fluidized bed, rain tower sander, or by hand into a sand-like stucco, which is dry crystalline silica of a controlled grain size, and allowed to dry. These secondary coats usually are mullite, molochite, chamotte, or fused silica refractory material. This step is repeated until the investment is the required thickness, which is usually 5 to 15 mm (0.2 to 0.6 in).

As an alternative to multiple dips the cluster is placed upside-down in a casting flask and then liquid investment material is poured into the flask. The flask is then vibrated to allow entrapped air to escape and help the investment material fill in all of the details. Prior to silica, a mixture of plaster and fire-proof material such as chamotte was used. An alternative to using silica is a slurry of ethyl silicate (alcohol-based and chemically set), colloidal silica (water-based, also known as silica sol, set by drying) or a hybrid of these controlled for pH and viscosity.

Melting

Metal casting grain is melted prior to injection by a centrifugal caster

The investment is allowed to completely dry, which can take 24 to 48 hours. It is then turned upside-down and placed in an oven to melt out or vaporized the wax. The melted wax can be recovered and reused, although often it is simply burned up, this is called burnout. At this point metal casting grain of the desired ring material is melted for pouring.

Spinning

Molten metal is spun into the hot flask, replacing the wax removed during burnout

The molten metal is then poured into the mold by a centrifugal caster. A centrifugal caster is used as a means of casting small, detailed parts or jewelry. An articulated arm is free to spin around a vertical axle, which is driven by an electric motor or a spring. The entire mechanism is enclosed in a tub or drum to contain hot metal should the mold break or an excess of metal be used. A small amount of metal in a crucible (a sort of ceramic pan) next to the mold is heated with a torch. When the metal is molten the arm is released, forcing (by centrifugal force) the metal into the mold. The high forces imposed on the metal overcome the viscosity, resulting in a finely detailed workpiece. A similar advantage is obtained by vacuum casting.

Quenching The Flask

The investment is removed and the flask is cooled

The flask is cooled and the investment material is blasted or chipped off.

The Result

This sprue button and attached ring are now ready for polishing

The ring is now ready to be prepped for sale. The ring is polished and buffed and removed from the Sprue.

Do you work with Platinum or White Gold?

Yes! When you click on a piece, notice that you will be given a lot of choices of metals, including rose gold and 18kt. For Platinum, price would depend on ring sizes and setting desired. Platinum is a delightful metal, nice and heavy, durable, and impressive. Platinum is more expensive than 14kt gold. It’s different to work with from gold, and I do love the results. White gold is available, same price as yellow gold. White gold is very durable and popular metal these days and is less expensive than platinum. We also carry 18kt gold and rose gold, by special request.

What kinds of gemstones may I choose from?

I carry a large stock of good quality colored gemstones of all types, and can order diamonds in all shapes and sizes and quality at a reasonable prices from sources in Los Angeles and New York.

The prices of these stones vary according to many factors such as cut, color and clarity. Consider your budget, and I’ll get you the best stones for your individual needs.

Are Diamonds available?

I have access to a large assortment of diamonds of different qualities and prices. This is best done over the phone, as the pricing varies according to cut, color and clarity. What can you budget for a stone, and in those parameters, would you be willing to live with very minute inclusions in order to get the largest stone possible? The variables are endless according to you budget needs. Call for a quote. All of my diamonds are of secondary sources, conflict free stones. I do this by buying only stones that have been in circulation here in the United States, from Estate sales or from jewelry that has been broken up to make new more exciting designs. http://jewelrybydaoud.com/home

Can I place an order on lay away?

Yes. Half of the money down insures a fix on the price, payments of any amount are O.K., but half down is the usual. You may pay monthly or weekly, as you wish. I prefer to have orders paid within two to three months.

Preferred payment plan: 1/2 down, 1/2 upon completion, except for rush orders which need to be done in 4 weeks or less, where full payment is required. A credit card works handily for this, check or money order is equally acceptable. If your budget requires evenly spaced weekly, bi-weekly or monthly payments, I can work this out with you.

I usually take 12 weeks for an order. I can do your order sooner (3 to 4 weeks, depending on my schedule) with the application of a rush charge of $60 per ring. Even with the rush fee, my work is very reasonably priced, and would be custom made to your size.

How do you make your jewelry?

I use a process called Investment Casting, otherwise known as Lost Wax Casting. You can read about my method – the process that each and every ring must go through to get to you: Lost Wax Investment Casting of Handmade Jewelry.